Aura of Beauty® Permanent Makeup

Eyebrow placement, size, and shape is marked off at the office with tools that measure down to the millimeters in a brow design method I developed to prevent errors. My system will be explained in my book for technicians. For daily DIY at home eyebrows, I’ll go over some of the common eyebrow drawing guidelines.

1) Beginning Of The Brow. Eyebrows should start above the inner corner of the eye. A tad one way or the other doesn’t matter. Sometimes the brow is pulled out or in a little depending on how close or wide set the eyes are. Eyebrows set too far apart can make the nose look wider and the eyes smaller. Pulling the brows abnormally close together for the purpose of slimming the nose starts working against you and will make the nose look more prominent, and sometimes gives a cross-eyed or angry look. Some beauty tips say to put a pencil straight up from the outer edge of the nose, but this is incorrect because there are too many variations in nose width. Just eyeball it and don’t worry about it – you will be in the ballpark. A little more precision is needed if it will be a permanent eyebrow. I mark the center and measure distance from this point to the start of each brow. This works most of the time. However, nothing is ever never or always and adjustments are made.

2) Arch Of The Brow. The break of the eyebrow arch should be in the area above the outer edge of the iris while focusing straight ahead. This will be a little short of two thirds. The arch may be moved out a tad to widen that slice of the face or for other purposes. Beauty tips often say 2/3, or to line a pencil from the outer edge of the nose going up along the outside of the iris and breaking where the pencil hits. The two thirds is one fourth inch too far out for the average face. The pencil from the nose puts the arch even farther than 2/3 unless you are making an extra long wrap around the temple brow. Again, there are variations in nose width that would fan the pencil in or out. Other variations include length of the eyes and how close or wide set they are.

The shape of the brow and the entire arch should be seen from the front of the face. The head should not have to be rotated to see the whole brow. The last half inch may start disappearing from the frontal view, but not an inch or more. Too many faces have the arch out too far. It looks like that part of the head was stretched out horizontally, or the brows are too big for their face. It also makes the eye length look shorter. We don’t want to return to the 50’s center arch and look surprised. The best look for the arch is almost two thirds. Factors that affect the need to move it in or out a little bit include brow size and shape, sharp or smooth arch, face size, and face shape.

3) Ending Of The Brow. The end of the brow is marked by placing a pencil from the center of the lip traveling up along the edge of the outer eye. The mark is made on the inside of the pencil. Variations in face length, face width, eye length, and how close or wide set the eyes are may necessitate moving this mark in or out a fourth of an inch. Beauty tips say to go from the outer edge of the nose, but noses have different widths that would cause this line to fan in or out. The center of the lip stays the same.