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Eyebrow Styles 3

Drawing Eyebrows For Face Shapes And Facial Features

Uneven eyebrows may affect the shape attainable for permanent eyebrow tattoo. You may have been born with one eyebrow shaped different than the other, or one brow higher than the other. Uneven eyebrow height usually occurs later in life as a result of the aging process. One side of the face will sag more than the other, and it is almost always the side you sleep on. The pressure on the skin decreases circulation x hours while sleeping, plus the skin gets pulled and slid around. Women often appear to have uneven eyebrows because of habitual raising of the forehead muscles - one side higher than the other - "raised eyebrow'. Interestingly, the brow that women raise higher is actually the brow that is lower in the relaxed position. This may be because the muscles have to contact harder on the lower side to raise it up, and the excessive movement continues to make it more saggy. The excessive movement is like a gym workout to the forehead muscle. The muscle gets stronger and stronger, able to raise to brow higher and higher. Remember Mom saying that if you keep making faces your face will freeze that way? It may have been true after all. Some of the brow raising women cannot relax their forehead muscles when they try. When the forehead muscles become too hyperactive and are causing forehead wrinkles, it may be time for a botox shot. Sometimes, older women are raising eyebrows to open the eyes more to see better. Sagging upper eyelids weigh down the eye and decrease visual field. When this is the case, many insurance companies will pay for upper blepharoplasty / eyelid surgery if a visual field test shows that lateral / peripheral and superior / upper vision is affected. If the eyebrow is sagging below the brow bone / orbital rim, insurance may pay for a direct brow lift (incision above the brow - not an entire forehead lift).


If one eyebrow is lower than the other, or shaped a little differently, you have three choices: 1) leave them uneven because you want all your real hairs to be growing in the permanent makeup area, 2) make small modifications to improve symmetry (color high on the low side and color low on the high side) - a compromise that would reduce but not eliminate eyebrow hairs in the cosmetic tattoo area, and may still be a little asymmetric, or 3) heck with the hairs - make the eyebrows even with the permanent cosmetics.

Many women have not noticed that their eyebrows are uneven, and are less likely to notice it on other people. On the other hand, there are some eyebrow obsessed fanatics that are as upset over a one hair difference as an anorexic is with a one ounce weight gain. We want to get the two eyebrows as similar as possible, but each side of the face is different - which is why it is difficult and time consuming to draw the eyebrows the same every morning. The shape of the skull differs from one side to the other in the curvature of the frontal to temporal bone, the prominence of the brow ridge, and the indentation above it. The contour of fat tissue is also different on each side. Each side of the face has its own set of muscles, nerves, and blood supply. Often, one side will be the dominant, stronger side. A person will typically raise the same brow to varying degrees all day long without realizing it. This adds to the difficulty of drawing eyebrows evenly each day. Women tend to raise a brow when focusing in on something - like themselves in the mirror. One side of the forehead muscles tense unnoticeably as you concentrate and become irritated by multiple attempts to complete the task. When you finally reach a satisfactory result, you go finish the morning routine. One last glance in the mirror and……Shrrieeek! They became uneven after you relaxed. The eyebrows are going to be in varying positions all day as you work and interact with others.

A note of caution: When drawing your eyebrows in preparation for cosmetic tattooing, this same thing can happen. The brows can be drawn on; look even, tattooed, and then later looks uneven. One of two scenarios can occur. 1) The muscles were tense and raising the skin unevenly at the time the eyebrows were drawn. They were thought to be even, and were even – in the tensed muscle state. Once relaxed, they are uneven. 2) The muscles were relaxed at the time the eyebrows were drawn. They were thought to be even, and were even – in the relaxed muscle state. Once you return to your normal raised brow position, they are uneven.

If a person raises a brow briefly or occasionally, the brows should be drawn evenly in the relaxed position. If a person keeps the same brow raised almost all the time, the raised side can be drawn slightly lower and flatter to compensate. If you are drawing the eyebrows yourself, do it hours before your appointment so you will have plenty of time to recheck them. If you are letting the permanent makeup artist draw your brows, your forehead will be most relaxed while gazing downward at the floor (but keep head up straight). Don't close your eyes because lack of visual stimuli makes you more sensitive to touch and forehead muscles will tense when you have nothing better to do than wonder what is going on with your eyebrow drawing. Looking at the artist or straight ahead may cause the muscle to tense and raise a brow.

BOTOX VS FACIAL EXERCISING  Repeated facial expressions leave wrinkles in the skin. The forehead over the raised brow will have more wrinkles and/or a different pattern of wrinkles. A person could try to break the brow raising habit by training not to react with the forehead. Placing a strip of tape upward from the brows can serve as a reminder every time you contract the muscles. It would be easier to start this after a dose of botox is wearing off. Botox shots paralyze the muscle to prevent contraction and give the skin a chance to smooth out. It also helps the muscle forget what it was constantly doing (raising) and helps weaken the too stong hyperactive forehead muscles. It wears off in about four months. After so many repeated injections, it begins lasting longer and the muscle may become permanently paralyzed. Botox vendors tell us what a great solution this is. Vendors of facial exercising gadgets like Flex Effect tell us that deteriorating facial muscles cause facial sagging, and that exercising these muscles will lift and tone the face, and increase circulation to feed nutrients to the skin. Lack of muscle use leads to atrophy (wasting away). What’s a person to do? Lets think about this. If you look closely at someone who has half of their face paralyzed, the paralyzed side has less skin wrinkles but more overall facial sagging. Could it be that the temporary fix of botox would lead to an earlier need for a facelift? Making faces for daily exercise, which would contribute to skin wrinkles doesn’t sound much better. There are electronic muscle stimulators like the Dermal Tone that can give maximum muscle contraction with minimal skin disturbance. Using topical vitamins and nutrients can be beneficial for anti-aging. My opinion is that occasional Botox injections are beneficial for preventing wrinkles, but the muscles should be given a period of normal activity before repeat injections. How long the time lapse should be depends on the severity of the case. If the brow raising is due to excessive eyelid skin, the best fix is blepharoplasty/ eye lid surgery.

BOTOX AND PERMANENT MAKEUP  Botox is used in various areas for specific effects. Injected into certain locations of the forehead, it can raise the eyebrows. ref If botox is raising the brows at the time they are drawn for the eyebrow tattoo, the brow placement and shape will be different after the botox wears off. An eyebrow tattoo should be timed before or after the brow raising technique is in effect unless you plan to have repeated injections forever. Worth mentioning is that when the brow is raised by botox, it pulls the arch out in the wrong spot - making the arch too far out and the shape looks a little odd. A better solution would be to see a plastic surgeon about the endotine procedure.

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The space between the eyes determines if they are average, close set, or wide set. The distance between the eyes is normally the width of one eye. When the eyes are close set, the brows can be groomed farther apart so the space between is the width of one eye to create the appearance of more widely spaced eyes. When the eyes are wide set, the eyebrows can be groomed closer together so the space between is the width of one eye to create the appearance of more closely spaced eyes.

Typically, the eyebrow begins above the inner corner of the eye. A tad shorter or longer is ok as long as it isn't too much. The differences between the two sides of the face can affect the look of symmetry on this also. Women can carefully place each eyebrow to begin above the inner corner of each eye, and then beat their head against the wall trying to figure out why it doesn't look right. Women will zero in on the center spot above the nose and view length of distance to the right for the beginning of that eyebrow, and length of distance to the left for the beginning of that eyebrow. One brow will look like it comes in closer to the center than the other, but both are at the same point above the inner corner of the eye. The problem is that one side of the face has a greater distance between the center of the nose bridge and the inner corner of the eye  - more so on some than others.

Mark the center spot above the center of the nose bridge. Don't look down the nose for a straight line because many noses lean off to one side or the other. With a flexible measuring tape, measure millimeters to the left to a general starting point above the inner corner of that eye, then mark the same millimeters to the other eye. Depending on how much difference in length there is too each eye, compromise a couple of millimeters the direction needed on both sides so that they are both about the same distance from the center starting point. It has been my experience that women are happier with a symmetrical distance from the center point than symmetrically placed above the inner corner of the eye.


Sometimes there may not be a significant difference from the center point to each eye, but it looks like there is because the nose leans over. When the nose leans to the left, it can make the right eye and eyebrow appear farther over.


Insurance will usually pay for nose surgery if the crooked nose was caused by a recent injury, or if it causes breathing difficulty.


Eyebrows for different face shapes


OVAL * LONG * HEART * DIAMOND * SQUARE * ROUND
The principles behind particular eyebrow shapes for different face shapes are really quite simple. To achieve harmony, we incorporate five principles of art and design: 1) Proportion - the appreciation of line and scale to give the illusion of better proportions of facial shape and features. 2) Balance - the observance of equilibrium to balance the face. 3) Emphasis - making the brow a focal point to detract attention from other features. 4) Rhythm - the flow and movement of brow lines to create harmony in relation to facial structure. 5) Unity - the coordination of smooth lines and sharp angles to unite all aspects for a total look as a whole.

Worth notation here, is that facial shape changes as age progresses. As facial tissue sags downward and jowls form, the face begins to appear more square or long.


Facelift procedures restore youthful contour to the face in a manner that is individualized for each patient. Sagging tissues are tightened and fat accumulations are removed.


The basic overview of eyebrow styles for facial shapes is this: 1) an angular face can be balanced by a smooth rounded brow, or a round face can be balanced by an angular brow. 2) Eyebrow lines can guide the eyes in the direction needed to shorten, lengthen, slim, or widen a face. Our view of the face (what we would recall when asked to describe someone) is typically from the chin to the top of the eyebrows. A) Flat eyebrows direct the eyes side to side which would add width to the face. Lower, flatter eyebrows stop the eye from going higher up the forehead, thereby shortening the face. B) High angled eyebrows direct the eyes up and down, thereby lengthening the face. Defined peaks draw attention to the eyebrows and away from other features.

In between the flat eyebrow and high angled eyebrow are dozens of variations that work well with all the face shapes. Don't get stressed out. When a flat eyebrow is recommended, flat means low arch - straight flat eyebrows without shape are not attractive on any face. Click on the facial shape pictures below to see how different eyebrow styles look with each face shape.


Oval Face
Long Face
Heart Face
Diamond Face
Square Face
Round Face
OVAL * LONG * HEART * DIAMOND * SQUARE * ROUND

Other misc considerations for eyebrow styles include: 1) Bone structure - small, average, large? 2) Forehead shape - narrow, average, wide, low, high, wrinkled or smooth? 3) Eye size - small, average, or large? 4) Nose shape - short, long, thin, wide, average, well shaped or uneven?


EyebrowStyles pg 1: Decades of eyebrows
Eyebrow Styles pg 2: Basics of eyebrows
Eyebrow Styles pg 4: Aging brows & facelifts
Eyebrow Styles pg 5: Permanent eyebrows FAQ 
 

© Mychelle Tulk, RN (918)747-8598 Tulsa Oklahoma