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Permanent Eyeliner Styles pg 3: eyeliner and eye shapes

 


Permanent eyeliner makeup design can make the most of your features. Eye shape and eye size may be enhanced via optical illusion by line, or by color and value changes. Positive and negative space principles are also utilized to fool the eye into seeing depth and form desired. Eye feature enhancement or illusions (making one not see a shape that is there, or making one see a shape that is not there) have been practiced by makeup artists for years. The pinpoint accuracy of the small tattoo needles allow precision not possible with eyeliner pencils... and it stays in place!

If permanent eyeliner is to be designed around the eye according to eyeshape, one must first understand what the ideal eye shape is. We have all heard or read that the oval face shape is ideal, with makeup and hairstyles designed to make all other face shapes appear more oval. Similarly, we are told that the almond eye shape is ideal. Actually, an almond is too blunt on one end. If both ends were tapered it would look more like an eye. After polishing off an entire package of almonds with close inspection of each one, I have concluded that almonds are not all shaped the same anymore than eyes are, so it is a meaningless comparison standard.

 

Makeup / beauty books give generic tips (relating more to eyeshadow than to eyeliner) for deep set eyes, protruding or prominent eyes, close set eyes, wide set eyes, small eyes, round eyes, hooded eyes, down-turned eyes and asian eyes. All these variances are to be addressed, but the first observation after looking at the eye as a whole unit should be the angle of the eye. Then note the upper and lower eyelids separately for contour, laxity, palpebral fissure width and marginal reflex distance MRD-1 & MRD-2, position of upper eyelid crease, and amount of free space on the tarsus of the upper lid. These are things cosmetic surgeons include in their assessments before surgery.
The palpebral slant is the angle of the line from the inner corner of the eye (medial canthus / endocanthion) to the outer corner of the eye (lateral canthus / exocanthion).  The desired eye angle is the slightly uplifted outer corner (positive canthal tilt). Women with this youthful-looking slant can apply makeup in almost every style. The eye that is too angled up needs an eyeliner and eyeshadow style that will slightly decrease the angle to avoid a cat look. Some abnormally up-angled eyes are associated with genetic disorders and syndromes. The eye that is straight across from the inner to outer corners (straight angle) has to be very careful not to drag the eye down into a negative-looking tilt with eye makeup. The makeup goal is to lift the eye a little into a positive-looking tilt. A down turned eye angle (negative canthal tilt) may be genetic or a result of aging. This can be corrected with canthoplasty / eyelid surgery, but meanwhile, the eye makeup goal is to lift the eye as much as possible by creating a look of upward contour. Usually, a straight angle look is the best that can be achieved with makeup for the down turned eye.
Eye Angle
Eyeliner Styles pg 1: eyeliner basics
Eyeliner Styles pg 2: application styles
Eyeliner Styles pg 4: aging eyes, eyeliner FAQ

© Mychelle Tulk, RN (918)747-8598 Tulsa Oklahoma